I’m receiving so many enquiries on how to convert an AGA to run on firewood, I’ve decided that rather than reply to individuals one at a time, I’d make it a full post here….
Yes, it is possible…… but an AGA running on wood does not run like an AGA on anthracite I now understand. When all and sundry on the internet told me “it will never work”, I now understand they meant “it will never work the way it was designed”!
A solid fuel AGA is a wonderfully designed and engineered piece of kit.
The inner barrel (which is removed during the conversion) feeds coal to the fire at a steady rate using gravity, ensuring the stove remains at a constant temperature once you have established the position of the thermostat on the left hand side of the front. And I suspect you’d only need to fuel it once a day, maybe even less often….
When using wood, you have to feed it fuel constantly through the [new conversion kit] top, about 1/2 kg/hour. Otherwise your temperature will be all over the place, albeit changing slowly, as the stove has amazing thermal momentum due to all the cast iron in it….. And, when re-stoking it in the morning, you will have to at the very least move the thermostat to 5, or even open the ashpit door to get lots of air to restart the fire if it goes out overnight. Most mornings, mine is on the edge of the black zone on the heat gauge, or somewhere between that and the black line in the middle, which is your target temperature. But I put a couple of kgs of wood in it before going to bed. The gauge will redline, and the cooking rings will glow red hot!
Wood doesn’t burn as efficiently as anthracite, and burning it produces a lot more exhaust gases than coal. So you need a larger diameter flue. You can buy a conversion kit in Australia from here http://www.gallaghers.com.au/ where you can also view a (pretty crappy) B&W picture of the conversion kit
The kit consists of an adapter from 4″ to 5″ flue (top RH item in the pic), a new grate, and a new set of boiling plate rings that allow you to feed large pieces of wood through the top. The rest of the stuff is for cleaning the flueways, an ash shovel, and a tool for lifting the middle cover for feeding the wood. Not sure what the little round thing is….. There is one other major thing you need to do, and that’s to open up the flueway above the top oven. When you lift the RH simmering plates off the stove, you will see a bar that runs diagonally above the top oven. It has a semi circular cutout in the middle of it, which astonishingly is all the space allowed for the exhaust to pass through to the flue, as the simmering plate sits on this. This is way too small when using wood, and you have to cut it with an angle grinder so that none remains. I did this by making lots of cuts close together, and using a hammer to knock out the small pieces. It’s a bit messy, but it works…. I suspect this reduces the temperature of the simmering plate somewhat, but there you go, you can’t have everything in life!
I’m still pleased with the conversion, but beware…. ONLY burn well seasoned wood! The first load of wood I got was quite good, but the second was not. It burns less hot, and worse, creates rather large amounts of soot that deposit in the flue box where the flue proper shoots off upwards. When enough soot blocks the manifold (that’s the part I had to replace when I fixed the AGA), the whole thing refuses to work… a bit like blocking the exhaust pipe of your car! It’s not hard to fix with a scraping tool and a vacuum cleaner, but it means letting the stove go cold.
Good luck, and let me know how you get on…..
UPDATE: This blog is getting a lot of hits from searches for converting gas/oil AGAs to wood. IF your AGA was originally a coal burning device that has been converted to gas/oil, then YES it can be converted to wood, because if it can be converted back to its original fuel, then it can be converted to wood as well. However, if your AGA was built to only burn gas/oil, then I’m afraid you can stop searching……. it can’t be done.
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Thanks so much for the vital info on Aga conversions. Am in the process of purchasing one which currently runs on gas. I know someone who does the conversion however need to know now from the current owner if it originally ran on gas or other. Many thanks again Debbie
I’v been using my wood aga for 10 years now, It does’t cook as well with wood and needs pleanty of air and heat flow. I hotice the baffle knocked out under the simmer plate. You need to think about a roast the day before almost and have it cranked up. It will only burn for 12 hours max, but it uses stuff all wood. I couldn’t imagine life without mine, its the heart of the home and we all congregate around it telling yarns,
It sounds to me like your AGA doesn’t run as well as mine for whatever reason……. I’ve been known to start it up around midday, and have a roast on the table by 6PM! And I’ve had mine run non stop for several weeks last year (it wasn’t cold enough this winter unfortunately for bothering this year).
There’s a typo in your comment about the baffle under the simmer plate……. so I’m not sure what you mean. Did you take yours out entirely?
I have followed some advice on here and other forums, my standard AGA was solid fuel converted to gas then I converted it back to solid fuel, I am having trouble with fumes coming into the room, it does not appear to draw all that well, a spinning cowl is on and that has made it better, but I would love more draw, maybe its the manifold? Any suggestions. Kevin. Thanks!
Hi Kevin…
The only time I’ve had problems like this is when the flue has been gummed up. I take it you’re still burning coal?
Whether you are burning coal or wood, it is IMPERATIVE that you use the highest quality fuel you can get. In the case of coal, it should be anthracite (which I think is almost impossible to get now..), and when using firewood, it should be hardwood that’s been dried for at least two years……. otherwise you will cause the production of a lot of pollution gases that condense on the flue AND the internal airways of the stove. Make sure there is no accumulation of waste material at the base of the flue where it comes out of the AGA at the back….. the removable inspection plate is there for that very purpose. I’ve seen mine totally blocked up there, and I use a workshop vac to suck it out, but a word of warning, let your AGA cool down first or the hot crap could destroy your vacuum cleaner!
Good luck, let me know how you go…
Good on you guys doing these wood conversions.
What I have learnt over the many years of working on cooker problems, is that to get more heat, you gotta get more draw up the flue pipe.
The flue size must be greater than the inlet of where the air goes into the cooker.
Conversely, if its too large, the fuel will disappear too quickly and you’ll be headin’ outdoors more often to cut more trees down to keep the missus & nippers warm & happy.
The flue size and how hot the flue is, at the very top edge of the flue is a major factor to be considered.
Where I am (where its common to be 0º C or less in winter) for optimum efficiencies, we need 3 skinned flues and even better, a flue that is lined with, or even partially lined with insulation.
This is to retain a good amount of heat in the flue so as to keep the draw positive.
It also assists in a big way, to help keep the flue clean and less money heading out the door into a chimney sweeps pocket
If the top of the flue is cold, then creosote forms and this is likely to be seen or viewed from the ground.
One major contributor to creosote formation is moisture. Moisture in the flue, is condensation.
The creosote of course tells the story that the flue is too cold and therefore, you’re not getting enough heat to cause a good amount of draw, which in turn means that the cookers not achieving the temperatures that it could or should.
In my mind, there is no questioning….. that THE FLUE MAKES OR BREAKS THE COOKER.
Height of the final outlet of the flue, is also a factor when it comes to getting more draw. As is the type of cap on the top of the flue.
I personally like the weather vane type but I’m probably bias cause that’s what I have.
Another factor, is that NO AIR must be able to be sucked into the flue, or the flue ducting/ galleries, or fire box, from anywhere other than through the fire boxes sole, factory made intake.
Any leaks for air to be sucked in, prevents oxygen laden air (oxygen being a primary fuel for fire) will reduce the heat in the combustion area which is desired to be immediately at the solid fuel’s surface, which in turn reduces the possible heat from the firebox & beyond into the Oven or Hot Plate.
So its the heat in the firebox which is what we want, ay. The air inlet is most likely gonna have a damper on it. (some older ranges didn’t)
If you’re lucky, (like the Rayburn 355 cookers owners) there might be a secondary intake which is likely to be controllable as well.
Id be interested to hear/read of someone has recalculated the needed air flow and hacked into a Ash Pit door (or somewhere else) to make a greater sized air inlet. But as has been written about, the size & flow of the flue gasses ducting, must also be take into account to get optimum draft.
Going back to air coming from the wrong places, one way to observe if air is being sucked into where it should NOT BE, is to take note of any darkened areas on the outside surfaces.
Even a little smoke escaping through unwanted gaps when lighting the fire (NB. flue still cold and little or no draw happening yet) indicates that when there is draw happening, the gap or opening allows the air’s flow direction to change, to reverse and allow cool air into the flue system away form the primary combustion area.
At these gaps, one way of testing if air is flowing one way or another, is by using a lit candle or a small ribbon or even a cotton thread. The way it leans will indicate a flow of air.
Dunno if I’m preaching to the converted or not, but maybe someone might get something from the above.
Best wishes to yee all
Hi all I have never left a comment about anything online before but this website has been the only help ive found usefull for my situation. About a year ago we decided to buy a combustion stove. We found our aga in hobart and bought it site unseen. I was un aware it was never designed to burn wood only coal we paid 2k for it and I was almost going to sell it again untill I read this post. Agafix spares.com supplied us with a new ash pit door and a few cosmetic parts. I could not source a wood conversion kit so I lifted the boiling plate out and cut the bottom feeder tube off. I gave the plate to my local metal workshop who machined the fillerplug hole out to the size of a dinner plate and cut a 10mm thick steel plate to replace the plug. I drilled 2 holes in the plate ground a groove between them on the underside and welded a plate over to reseal the holes. I made my own plug lifter to suit the plate. I have fitted the big girl with a standard wood heater flue. On The top spigot I have built a reducer ring which does not work. I am currently looking for a rayburn flue box to adapt to my aga. Failing that I will build a new one from scratch. Under the simmer plate I have ground away the smoke gully by lifting the simmer plate off to gain access. Now this next bit is unique from anything I have read. On the bottom of the simmer plug I have cut tapped and bolted a short piece of angle iron to cover the gap left by the cutting in the smoke gully. I then pin punched the plate itself and the plug on the top surface to show me when the flue way is closed. Turning the plug allows me to open and close the flue. Closing it at night ensures a belly full of coals ready to cook breakfast. And it will cook. The food that comes out of it is un believable. I have had to re learn how to bake and we have basically replaced every bit of cookware in our kitchen but I could not imagine having another stove. It is great. I am already worried about what I will do if it should break down and need replacing. The next step for me is to install a boiler. I have a standard model c and am going to pull it down to its skeleton in my kitchen. I will install a heat exchange style evaporated tube low pressure solar hot water service above it with a 200l capacity.
I would like to thank you for taking the time to provide such great information. Without it I would not have my aga. And that would be none good.
Hi Tasagaia………. I’m so very pleased I could be of assistance. Where do you live in Tassie? And I could not agree with you more re “The food that comes out of it is un believable”. When I first read people raving about how good their food was, I just thought it was ‘spin’, or AGA selling stoves, but it’s absolutely true. AGA ovens do not work like ordinary ones…
Have you downloaded the assembly manual yet? I’ve just checked the link on the AGA saga page on this blog and the link doesn’t work anymore…. send me an email at damnthematrix at riseup dot net and I can send you a copy of the manual…
I love the idea of having the adjustable flueway under the simmering plug… even with the ‘thermostat’ on 1 overnight, I can sometimes find the stove without any burning embers left to start anew in the morning. of course it’s still very warm, and it takes no effort to relight, but I like your idea of choking it further than the thermostat will allow. I sometimes think I removed too much meat on the simmering plate choke, but that’s what the people at Gallaghers told me to do over the phone… have you taken any photos? Maybe with your assistance I could write up a new page on how you did your conversion…
Stay in touch,
Mike
Oh and I should add, I have just found this other helpful blog too…
http://agabloga.wordpress.com/
Hey Tasagaia, I am in Coolongolook, NSW and I really like the idea that you had about your simmer plate modification. I would like to discuss it more with you as I am getting to the point of modifying my 1952 AGA, can you please send me an e-mail at tim(at)shilohmediainc.com? Kind Regards, Tim.
Hi Tim, nice talking to you on the phone. Tasagaia never replied to my request either….. don’t know if people get notifications of replies to their comments or not, but I’d love to talk to him myself, and even meet him and his AGA in Tasmania. So if you’re still out there Tasagaia…..
If anyone has a gas conversion they have removed from an Aga. I would be happy to purchase it. I havea wood Aga and want to convert to gas. Tony
Aga 4710 do you have anything that shows you how to put it all together? The Aga books have a different air vent/manifold and I’m double checking how to do it….. Any help appreciated
I have a classic 4 door Aga circa 1940s which I acquired with a home purchase, I was told it had been moved 100 metres down road from another home in the family and had undergone a conversion to electricity, from what I do not know but an Aga dealer suggested it may have been even coal. It uses a lot of electricity and I believe it requires a thorough service, who does service Aga’s in South Australia and can anyone advise what I should do, As a pensioner I cannot afford to replace this Aga, I love using it, however the electricity costs at this point are prohibitive. Help what can I do???
Hi Carol……
1940’s seems like very very old to me. I wasn’t even aware that 4 oven stoves were made that far back. I bought a 4 oven AGA from the Adelaide Hills last year, moved it to Tasmania….. https://damnthematrix.wordpress.com/2015/08/15/ive-won-the-jackpot/ Is this what your cooker looks like?
That stove was dismantled by someone who knew what they were doing, for $1000. Whichever way you look at it, unless you can do the work yourself like I can, anything to do with AGAs is very expensive. And unfortunately for you, I have lost all my email contacts with the lady who sold me the stove and obviously knows someone who can at least pull them apart.
Having said that, you need to be very careful about who services your AGA, because the one I bought had been tampered with causing some major damage (and I’m talking $1500 just for parts!).
Your electricity woes are exactly why I’m such a fan of wood conversion, and electricity can only likely go up in the future. I wish I could help…..
I have just had an Aga restarted after almost 50 years. It has some damage due to a leaky flat roof. We have had repairs carried out i.e barrel replaced., bottom grate and a new lid. And filled up any holes with fire cement. Oh and a new flue chamber and cowl. I am afraid to let it burn over night as it went almost into the red a couple of times. I am lightiing it every morning. How much anthracite is recommended to keep it lit for 24 hours. Its running almost 2 n half months.the ovens were a rusty. And the side panel enamel has been damaged due to the roof leaking. I leave the boiling plate lid up at night and the oven door slightly ajar at night and at 1. Its fantastic heat and great for roasting and baking. Its around 1940. Pure genuine craftsman ship. Any advice would be great
Hi…….
I have ZERO experience of running an AGA on anthracite. However, if the temperature gauge goes in the red with your thermostat on 1, I suspect something is wrong with the thermostat. You can check if it’s working by removing the plate on the LHS of the stove held by one screw. Behind it, you will see a little flappy thingy that should block the air intake when the stove gets too hot. It’s adjustable, as it it screws on the spindle that holds it, and a small lock nut should stop it from moving or getting loose…. if it doesn’t block the intake when hot, screw the flap towards the intake until it does block it off..
A quick google revealed that if the bottom of your barrel has rotted away it might cause too much fuel to burn, but seeing as you’ve replaced that, it’s unlikely to be the cause of your problems..
Good luck.
Mike
Do you have a picture of the model, interested to see if similar to my 2
I do have photos.
Can you email them to me at stilley@tagworldwide.com pease
Hi all, I have a 1957 Deluxe 2 oven in good condition and have had an awesome experience dealing with Agafixspares in UK….Barry Charman is a terrific bloke to talk to and hugely experienced in Agas and Rayburns, however my Aga is missing it’s inner barrel which weighs 60kgs and to get one sent over from England is way too expensive. Can anyone here help me out with one they do not need anymore which I can purchase for mine? Have been looking for a few years to no avail. I have the wood conversion kit but am nervous about using it as I just can’t see how it would keep going through the day when I’m not home and as I live in town it may puff out lots of smoke each time it’s refueled….but I do have the conversion kit in a box here if everyone thinks that it’s fine to use, plus a good supply of river red gum which burns nicely. However ultimately I’m still very keen to get an inner barrel if anyone has one for sale as I’d love to burn anthracite or coke. Many thanks for your help with an inner barrel, it’d be the best news if someone had one for sale. Dave
Hi Dave…….
You’re right, it won’t keep going all day on wood, but if you burn well seasoned wood, it won’t smoke, the one I had in Qld only smoked for a couple of minutes from cold, or if/when I put crap wood in it.
IF you really really need an inner barrel, my old one is at a friend’s place in Qld. You can have it if you like or just make a donation via the donation button on the website. Email me at damnthematrix at riseup dot net to get Bruce’s details……
WHAT will you do when the coal runs out? Serious question……..
Hi Mike and Simon
Thank you for your replies really appreciated, I live in Tumut NSW….and Mike very true, I did manage to find a source of Anthracite in Newcastle last year but since then not sure if they’re still operating. That has been a question I’ve thought about for ages, converting to electrickit from UK was an option but again expensive to import and then make good for our power systems in Australia, gas conversion etc expensive too, old style fuel seems to be making a comeback in some regions overseas but not here. I’d just like to see the Aga operate in its original way for a time before I convert it to something more practical. Anyways I will email you today with contact details re Qld address etc. many thanks for the offer of the inner barrel and thank you too Simon for your interest in my restoration of this Aga. Truly appreciated. Regards Dave E.
They do have them on Ebay now and again. Where are you based as I know a few places that sell them.
I have a couple of second-hand barrels but I have no idea what model they are for.
I shall ask the chap who I got all the items from but I wouldn’t hold my breath that he will be realistically, of assistance.
I also have a couple of NEW Hobs. I have the model written on the back of them but they are some kms away from where this computer is sited.
Don’t hang your hat on this email but lets see what come out of it.
cookerman.co.nz
Cheers
Do you mean INNER or OUTER barrels…..? I would love to get my hands on an outer barrel, or even two if you have them….
Where do you live?
Message for mikestasse
Sorry but I cant work out how to contact you directly through this site so here’s hoping this get read by you.
The Barrel (sorry but there is only one) is across the ditch near Christchurch.
I know is an outer.
I have spoken to the chap who knows lots about Aga and was the chap who service the cooker that it came out of, and he has asked for a photograph of it via email so as to advise me of what model it is/was out of. He said that it will be one of two different models of CB & will be 100 ib in weight.
I’ll take the camera with me today (27 Sept ’17) & he will take a look this evening.
Once I get the model of Aga off him, I’ll get back on this web page and advise you.
thank you…
Sorry, I thought I’d be back on here before now.
I have photographs of the bits that I have. Wanna post an email address some how?
Outer barrel is off a CB.
I’m told it was used from 1950 onwards.
Ash Pit also available for same range
Boiler also available.
Ash Pit has a piece broken out of it but my Aga guru friend is saying that it most definitely can be used again.
There is also a BRAND NEW beautiful enameled black Hob available.
Its enamel of it, is truly MAGNIFICENT ! !
He was a wealth of knowledge about Aga and was one of 2 guys in NZ who when in business, could set them up with all the clearance calibrations with out a manual. A delightful chap to know & to chin-wag with. Such a mind of information!
Anyway, if you want to get in touch about them, they are available for decent offers.
Best wishes to all.
I’ve sent you an email, I hope it gets there…
I have just sent an email off to my email service provider as I cant get in to it! Grrrrr.
I hope it can get sorted REAL soon.
Looking forward to getting your email.
Hi, I have a old coke aga that I bought for $200 and it had a conversion kit already, 25 years later and she’s still going strong. The barrel is badly cracked, but I patch it up every season and way she goes. Bit of a bugger to light and smokes a lot until the oven and flue heats up then it draws the smoke away. Use plenty of firelighters. Its only really useful for roasts and warming the house, you need to turn the trays a few times if your cooking a cake. It uses stuff all wood and keeps the chill off the house day and night except when a frost is about. Now I’v just bought another which is oil and have tried 2 recommended places for the conversion kit, but out of stock and its been 2 years. If anyone has one let me know. I guess I’ll have to make it myself if they don’t come through soon. The recent purchase is a 4 oven, where mine is a 2 oven, so I’ll be interested to see how it performs. Its the heart of our victorian cottage and spend lots of winter time drinking tea with our arse parked on the aga telling stories.
Hello,
I am new to this site but would like some advice. I bought an electric Aga three years ago from some unscrupulous provider who told me that it would have a consumption “just like a fridge”. Useless to say that three years down the line my electricity bills are running very high and had to install another cooker for the summer months to avoid being too hot in the kitchen to keep Aga on to be able to eat…..anyhow now I keep it off for six months of the year to try to balance the cost but I really am thinking of the possibility of converting to wood if it is possible. I have a Aims system so it’s very new but could be done and from whom? thank you very much for your advice .
The short answer is………. can’t be done. Only solid fuel AGAs made before 1972 (when they stopped making them) can be converted. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but surely in winter, your AGA does more than allow you to cook on it? Does it not heat your house and water as well?
Hi.. just wondering whats best quality anthracite for my Aga. I am currently buying Esse. and it has a mixture of large and small nuggets. I am now at the bottom of the bunker and there is alot of dust.. is this ok to burn aswell. As I had to use what ever is remaining (trying to filter out the nuggets from the dust. and today the Aga seemed to heat up faster than normal.. as a result I kept the oven door open to try and prevent overheating. do you have to burn large nuggets of anthracite as I have been looking it up on the internet..
Regards
Maria
On Tue, May 3, 2016 at 12:22 AM, Damn the Matrix wrote:
> mikestasse commented: “The short answer is………. can’t be done. Only > solid fuel AGAs made before 1972 (when they stopped making them) can be > converted. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but surely in winter, your > AGA does more than allow you to cook on it? Does it not ” >
Sorry, can’t help, I’ve only ever burned wood in mine! I would have thought that anthracite being the best coal there is, there would only be the one quality? And if it’s approved by Esse, surely it must be fine……
Great thread here on your blog Mike, thanks for the great story about your wood burning Aga. I considered conversion to wood after de-commissioning our Aga around 15 years ago but decided to wait until solar panels were cheap. Now we’ve put a solar array on our roof and I’m converting our Aga to run on electric elements that I can control separately on timers etc. Should be much less energy hungry this way. Still need to get my control box sorted out but hopefully will have it up and running before winter!
In my not so humble opinion……. using electricity to generate heat is a waste of electricity.
The ting about AGAs is that they use a LOT of energy, regardless of the fuel you use. I calculated that the AGA you’ve just read about consumes 28kWh of wood heat per day. That’s a shitload of PV energy!
I don’t know where you live, but to do this in Tasmania would require at least 60 260W panels……
Mike you’re assuming the Aga is in its original configuration full of cast iron lumps in the left side where the heat is normally generated and ‘stored’. Massively wasteful if I were to convert it in that form. The old style electric conversions did that and were stupidly inefficient, as were the earlier factory electric models. I’m doing it much more efficiently than that, including newly fabricated (thinner) hotplates that will heat up more quickly but still perform well. In my opinion your solar calculations are not relevant to this type of conversion, but rather than try and explain now I’ll show you figures from actual usage once it’s up and running.
IF you’re not going to use your AGA as a heat storage device, I can’t see the point of all the rigmorole…… but by all means let me know how it goes.
It should still be able to function somewhat as a heat storage device but not as much thermal mass in it, so there’s a compromise with several pros and just a couple of cons. You’ll see when the numbers come in as more efficient electric Aga conversions in the UK have shown.
I should have mentioned Mike, re-comissioning our Aga will be primarily for cooking. The heat storage idea has limited attraction for me because heating the home we use an efficient wood boiler that does both space heating, hydronic heating to discrete rooms as well as boosting solar hot water. I was convinced over 25 years ago of the wisdom of burning well-dried wood for heating/cooking/hot water. Back then I read a scientific analysis that concluded the most environmentally friendly form of energy use for an average family was to burn wood from a mature woodlot of 1.5acres minimum. When replanted with appropriate species this turns out to be greenhouse positive.
For anyone wanting to talk about or show AGA conversions or restorations on Facebook I’ve created a page – just shared a link to this great blog on it too – https://www.facebook.com/groups/348685842240563/
Hey mikestasse, Im still having problems with my email. Can you re-send it to the one this message is attached to please?
Sorry about this.
Seems like my computer is rather antiquated and the OS system is out of date for that email provider. Gmail is honky-dory
Cheers
wow
what a site, just started blindly dismantling a 2 oven standard CB in pretty good shape, found a 24″ stilton wrench in the middle of the diatom earth, I guess the apprentice got a blast about that one, anyway early days for me heading to burning wood not coke so all this info here is priceless, thanks to all
Laurie
You might like to visit this too….. https://www.facebook.com/groups/agarestoration/
Thanks again👍
Sent from my iPhone
>
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Great news, kel from wood fires in from from Dromana has kits to convert your aga to wood, fantastic, they work really well. They need to be the old coke models, and a few modifications need to be made, keeps the house warm and burns stuff all wood
Great news, kel from wood fires in from from Dromana has kits to convert your aga to wood, fantastic, they work really well. They need to be the old coke models, and a few modifications need to be made, keeps the house warm.